For shades 1.0, 3.0, 4.0, 4.7, 4MIX, 5.4, 5MIX, 3.2 use the color activation emulsion 20. For all other shades use the color activation emulsion 30. There are 32 different shades in the Herb Gloss Colorant series. However, it is possible to mix different tones to achieve a completely personal shade. If you want to mix two shades that require different color activation emulsions, use the Herb Gloss color activation emulsion 20.